Vegania, Ragusa - Review

Recently opened Vegania in Ragusa has become a firm lunchtime favourite with my colleagues and I over the last month.

Now, I'm not a vegan, I stopped eating meat at the age of eight (my own decision), since I moved to Sicily, I reintroduced fish to my diet as vegetarianism here seemed a distant myth but things seem to be changing and I am seeing more and more places catering to vegetarian, vegan and even macrobiotic diets. Even if you don't want to become a full-time vegan or vegetarian, the health benefits to giving up meat even for just one day are immense, not to mention the massive positives to the environment and to animal welfare making this choice has. I really recommend taking a look at the Meat Free Monday website where you can read all about how one day a week can make an incredible difference and really impact on the world as a whole.

And even if you aren't interested in the benefits of the vegan lifestyle, the delicious offerings at Vegania have swayed the opinion of even the most dubious of my colleagues, not to mention my meat-loving Sicilian boyfriend!

My featured visit is from a few weeks ago, when I popped into Vegania with my fabulous colleague, Emily, for a lunchtime bite. We were seated in the bright, canteen-style lunchtime dining area which is slick, modern and allows a great view of the open kitchen area. There is a second dining area for evening visits, a more elegant setting, with softer lighting and more intimate seating arrangements.

We ordered a mixed plate, which meant a selection of all the days offerings. This included softly spiced rice with tofu, vegan lasagna, roasted vegetables and a slice of Ragusa province's speciality foccacia (a type of rolled pasta dish - a kind of lasagna/pasty hybrid, if you will). Each mouthful so fresh and full of flavour, not to mention being incredibly filling. This was all served with homemade cardamon bread - not that extra filling was required! Each time I have had the mixed plate, I have been completely satisfied.

A real treat is the juice options. I always go for Carrot, Orange and Ginger. With every mouthful, I can feel the inside of my body feeling cleansed.

Not to mention, after a visit here, there is a great feeling of energy and well-being for the rest of the day.

The coffee is also a real treat. Made from barley rather than regular coffee beans, such as arabica, so as to cut down on food miles and encourage a more sustainable way of sourcing what we eat, you get a much more delicate flavour. It's very aromatic and leaves a beautiful after-taste.

Pictured above is Emily with Vegania's incredibly welcoming and friendly owner. All of the staff are warm and helpful. It's a lovely atmosphere to be in.

The price is excellent. For all of the above, you can expect to pay just a little over €10 per head.

I really can't recommend this place highly enough. It's an absolute gem and I am so pleased that it has arrived just a short walk from my workplace. Ten out of ten, absolutely no complaints!


Vegania
Via Risorgimento, 12, Ragusa

7https://www.facebook.com/pages/Vegania/782827725116641

Delicatessen, Ragusa - Review

Thanks to my lovely friends living in Ragusa, I recently discovered this fabulous little gem of a place.

Half-deli, half-canteen style eatery, Delicatessen is a great place to stop for a bite to eat, day or night. You can enjoy one of the great freshly made sandwiches which offer plethora of fillings on a variety of breads or one of the homemade hot dishes from the kitchen, which includes pastas and soups with fresh, seasonal vegetables. There is a lot on offer here for vegetarians and vegans, with clear indications of which dishes are suitable, something which is still rather unusual in Sicily.

The decor is very modern and stylish, you could be forgiven for thinking this place might be better suited in one of Barcelona's fashionable districts or Manchester's Northern Quarter and so on.

Yesterday, my friend Emily and I popped in for a spot of lunch.

We both opted for sandwiches. Mine was mackerel with lettuce and black pepper while Emily went for prosciutto, mozzarella, tomato and pesto. Both huge sandwiches arrived after a little while and we delved in with eager anticipation (and significant hunger). The mackerel was a delight, really fresh tasting and beautifully seasoned. Emily thoroughly enjoyed hers and despite us both having started to feel quite full before finishing, we both made sure to finish every last bit in acknowledgement of such extreme tastiness.

(Pictured is Emily with her sandwich)

We have both had different sandwiches from here before and due to the high quality and wide variety on offer, we have challenged ourselves to try a different one each time.

The café offers a great selection of fresh juices. On this visit I went for a large glass of orange, carrot, celery and ginger which was revitalising as well as incredibly tasty. Emily had her usual glass of apple and pineapple, a favourite that never disappoints her.

Also on offer is a good range of local wines, ideal for evening visits.

You can also visit the deli where local cheeses, meats and fresh vegetables, along with a variety of specialist local produce is on offer.

The staff are incredibly friendly, though the service is true to the slow-food philosophy, so it is best not to go when you are in a hurry, as I have previously learnt from experience.

Slow service aside, it really is a treasure of a find, great food, great atmosphere and great times.

Delicatessen
Via Archimede 32-34, Ragusa

https://www.facebook.com/DelicatessenRagusa

Trattoria Basilico - Modica Bassa - Review

Trattoria basilico opened just over a year ago and quickly became a favourite place to eat for my fellow ex-pat friends and I. It's very close to my house so it is our usual place to dine at the times when I don't feel like cooking, in recent times, Totó and I have visited at least once in every fortnight. The restaurant offers a small menu of fresh produce, which changes daily and all dishes are prepared in the open kitchen. the restaurant is owned by simply the loveliest couple and is decorated in a unique, bijoux, mediterranean style... an amalgam of vivid colours, quirky artifacts and, last but definitely not least, a tribute to traditional Sicilian puppet theatre. In addition to this, you are always treated to a wonderful soundtrack of jazz or blues, a perfect accompaniment to a relaxing dining experience.

Today's November Sunday in southern Sicily was not unlike a good spring day in my native UK... temperatures in the low to mid twenties and when the sun was shining, it felt like more, it may be November 20th but it was pleasurable to sit outside in the sunshine, minus jackets, so after a leisurely morning, Totó and I decided to dine al fresco at one of our usual haunts.

Our starter was a shared plate of moscardini, little octopuses in a tomato and garlic sauce. It was the first time that I had tried this dish and I was really thrilled with the acidic sauce and thoroughly enjoyed the tiny whole octopuses.

This was served with warm, fresh bread, some toasted and some served warm from the oven. It was a lovely little opener and one plate was quite satisfactory for the two of us.

For our main courses, we both opted for Tagliolini Bottarga - pasta with tuna roe. I am a big bottarga fan and whenever I see it on a menu, it is usually my favoured choice. Today's bottarga was beautiful and served with a lemon and parsley sauce which tasted so wonderfully refreshing. We both made all the mmmmm-ing and hmmmm-ing noises possible on the first taste.

It was really a delightful dish and one that did not last very long at all!

Today's choice of vino was Hauner - Salina Bianco. This 60% Inzolia and 40% Catarratto mix from vineyards in Salina and Vulcano is a prefect accompaniment to fish dishes. It is crisply acidic with a sharp, tangy citrus aftertaste and hints of juniper and herbs (perhaps sage, I am still training my palate). A really enjoyable drink, which was recommended by our host as a good accompaniment, the gentleman of the casa has always been spot on with his wine suggestions, this guy knows his stuff!

No desserts for either of us today as Totó and his mother have filled my house with sweet treats so none were required... however, previous visits have included delicious rustic chocolate cakes and fantastic pistachio mousse. Always accompany with the Passito di Noto dessert wine!

Another lovely lunch, served by two of the loveliest people in Modica. A favourite place and somewhere you must visit if and when you come to Modica!

Trattoria Basilico
Corso Mazzini, Modica

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Trattoria-Basilico/194486314058346?fref=ts

Dirupo Rosso - Ragusa/Giarratana - Review

After a late, relaxing morning, my personal guide to Sicily decided to take me to a restaurant that he had visited many years ago for a wholesome, Sunday lunch in the countryside. On this island, the problem with visiting places that you just vaguely remember or have been given directions for, is that the country roads here are largely lacking in significant landmarks and road signage in Sicily is something of a mystery to locals as much as anyone who visits here... with this in mind it took us almost two hours of u-turns and advanced level reversing before we finally arrived at our destination, with the help of two lots of people by the roadside along the way (the journey back to Modica took approximately 15 minutes, as by then Totó (my boyfriend, who I have decided I do not want to repeatedly refer to as 'my boyfriend' every time he appears in a post)* had remembered the way he had been before).

Once we finally arrived, I realised that the journey had been worth our while. We were by a lovely lake, surrounded by hills that glistening in the November sunshine and the old country farmhouse that greeted us looked so warm and inviting. Inside, we were seated in one of the three dining rooms that overlook the lake, beautifully decorated and with tables dressed pristinely with white table clothes and elegant glassware. The only thing not in keeping with the understated elegance of the room and the tranquility of the outdoors scene was the awful pop music being played throughout - restaurants not choosing appropriate background music is a huge annoyance to me, the whole atmosphere is affected.

We ordered a mixed antipasto to begin with. Which was delicious, it included the most wonderful fresh ricotta, that had been slightly baked in the oven, sliced sausage (I'm not a meat-eater myself but Totó enjoyed what I couldn't), Sicilian focaccia (wrapped pasta with tomatoes), a spinach and pancetta dish, olives, peppers and some lovely bread made on the premises. We enjoyed the baked ricotta so much that we asked for some extra before our main course.

Neither of us can really manage the full antipasto, primi, secondi and dessert courses, so we usually opt for antipasto and either a first or second course. Today we both ordered pasta, I had been told that this area was prolific in wild mushrooms and so I thought while in the area I ought to try some. I ordered tagliatelle with local mushrooms, aubergine and tomato sauce, Totó ordered the same dish but with pancetta. The fresh pasta was delightful and the mushroom recommendation lived up to all expectations, a thoroughly pleasing Sicilian pasta.

After a short break, I didn't need much convincing to share a dessert. I had no idea what bigne was, so Totó felt it only right that he order this. What arrived were two delicate balls of choux pastry, one filled with sweet ricotta, the other with sweet cream. They were gorgeous, scrumptious, adorable and gone in two minutes. It was suggested we order another round of them and I feel I practised an enormous amount of self-control and strong will by refusing.

Our wine choice was Mandrarossa (2012), a Sicilian Cabernet Sauvignon. This wine has a beautiful colour, lighter than many of the regions red wines. While there is a distinct fruitiness about it, the wine is dry and has a pleasing pungent taste. With desert we had not one, but two glasses of one of my favourites, Passito di Noto. A combination of fruit and honey flavours, this is a perfect accompaniment to any Sicilian dessert.

Our waiter was courteous and attentive and the extra ricotta we had asked for with our starter was offered by the house. All was reasonably priced (as with most places in our area), absolutely no complaints regarding food, service or cost.

We spent a little time enjoying the views of the lake before returning (at a faster pace) home to Modica. I loved our lunchtime visit and would really like to return again, perhaps when friends or family visit from abroad.

Diruppo Rosso
Located on the road for Correndola 194 for 7km from Ragusa heading towards Gerratana

http://www.ristorantediruporosso.it/index.html

*I am aware that this is brackets within brackets, even as an English language teacher, I am not sure if this is officially allowed.

Sud - Marina di Modica - Review

First off, apologies for the long gap between blogs. October was a particularly busy and personally difficult month, which meant not so much wining and dining and life preventing blogging, social networking and the like. Things have calmed down a little and I hope this means reviews with more frequency this month and onwards.

Yesterday was All Saint's Day, a public holiday here in Italy, so my lovely boyfriend and I decided to make the most of the sunshine and head over to the seaside in Marina di Modica for a stroll, a sit by the sea, to enjoy some food and, mostly, to relax and enjoy some quietness and a slower pace than our days have allowed in recent weeks.

This summer we have spent a few lunchtimes at the beach bar, Sud, plus the occasional evening visit when we have enjoyed a pizza and a cocktail. So it was the obvious choice of where we would have lunch during our visit to Marina yesterday. The regular lady, who has served us well throughout the summer, promptly told us that yesterday was the final day of opening for 2014, the bar now being closed until spring 2015... we felt pretty fortunate to have stopped by one last time after our many visits there over the course of what has been an unforgettable summer together.

On past visits, we have enjoyed great pasta dishes and lovely salads but for both of us the firm favourite has been the mixed fried fish, so naturally this was the dish we both ordered yesterday.

The is usually made up of whole prawns, calamari, small whole cod and an assortment of other locally caught mediterranean fish (some of which I have no idea of the English translation for, having never seen or tasted them outside of Sicily). It is an ample platter for one and has never failed to be anything but deliciously wonderful. All the dishes are reasonably priced, this particular dish is just €10.

We washed our last lunch at Sud of 2014 down with some of the local white wine, served in half litres or litres. Around these parts, drinking the local wine is always pleasing and the cost is rather lower than buying by the bottle.

We have always been served by the same lady, who is so friendly and welcoming and has recognised us and chatted to us as friends throughout, what must have been, an extremely busy working period. I have heard her speak in English to tourists very adequately too, also the menus have an English translation for tourists.

The bar is open in the evenings as well, serving pizza and drinks. While during the daytime in the summer months, it also acts as a lido, hiring out sunbeds and parasols on the beach in front.

It has been an amazing summer. And I'm glad that Sud got to play a part... we will certainly be back as soon as spring arrives!

Sud
Marina di Modica

www.facebook.com/sud.modica

Mezzaparola, Donnalucata - Review

On Sunday evening, my lovely boyfriend, a local Modican man, took us out of Modica to Donnalucata for some moonlit seaside strolling and a romantic dinner for two. His location choices have never once left me disappointed.

There are two parts of Mezzaparola, a lovely little cocktail bar and just a few feet away, the restaurant.

Initially, we decided to go to the bar for an aperitivo. The bar is a lovely little spot with a great outside seating area, as well as a modern but comfortable interior bar, it's really pleasing on the eye. We sat outside and the first thing I noticed was the bossa nova jazz playing in the background, it was the perfect soundtrack for a relaxing seaside evening drink, it finished off the perfect ambiance of our gorgeous surroundings.

I moved to Sicily three years ago and since then, I have tried in vain to find a place were I can get a decent version of my favourite cocktail, the mighty Bloody Mary. Most places simply do not serve them, despite our lovely crops of tomatoes here in Sicily, drinking their juices is seemingly something of a taboo. And when I have managed to find somewhere willing to serve one, well, that desired kick is just not as forceful as it ought to be. So, when I saw Bloody Mary on the cocktail menu on Sunday, it was with slight trepidation that I ordered my long-lost favourite tipple (imagine my surprise when my boyfriend ordered one too!). It arrived garnished with cherry tomatoes and basil and the first sip told me all I needed to know, that familiar firey thrill on the tongue. Oh such pleasure! Finally! Finally! A Bloody Mary on the island I now call home. I think we can all sleep a little easier now I know where to go to get my fix.

We ordered some fishy snacks which arrived promptly and were beautifully presented. Being fully satisfied by our experience, we decided we would go for a little stroll by the sea and then hit Mezzaparola Part II - The Restaurant.

The restaurant too has a lovely outside seating space, it was a lovely evening with a warm breeze so we sat in the little garden along with a handful of other diners.

The menu was filled with enticing fish prime (first courses, usually pasta) and seconde (second courses). I was immediately drawn to the Spaghetti alla Bottarga (tuna roe) and after much deliberation, my dining partner went for the same. The dish was stunning, delicate flavours with fantastic fresh pasta. Honestly, one of the best pasta dishes I have eaten and that's a lot of pasta after three years in Sicily. We ordered a second course of tuna with onions and a tomato sauce to share, by this time, I was already feeling quite full but I was so pleased we did order it, the tuna was so tender and the onion and tomato sauce a joy to the palate. If we can describe food as beautiful, this certainly was.

We drank a bottle of Murgo from the Etna region of Sicily which accompanied the meal perfectly. Crisp and with flavours sharp enough to exist next to the lovely fish dishes. A strong choice for anyone looking for a wine to serve with fish.

The service was professional but friendly and I could see our fellow diners enjoying the experience as much as we did. Prices were reasonable given the enormously high standard of everything we tasted.

I can't wait for our next visit. It's an evening to remember for a long time to come, wonderful food, awesome drinks, great music and the company of the man I love... perfect!

Mezzaparola
Via Martiri D'Ungheria 2, 97018 Donnalucata