L'oste Del Borgo, Modica - Review

Today I made my second visit to L'oste del Borgo in Modica Bassa. My first was some time ago with my friend Lucy, who sadly no longer lives in Modica, so today I decided to suggest somewhere different to Totó for our special lunch (today is a public holiday in Italy and therefore an opportunity to slot some extra time together into our very busy lives), so we wondered through a very crowded Modica, filled with lots of people enjoying the Chocolate festival, which has been going on all weekend (very entertaining and enjoyable it has been too).

The restaurant is in one of the side streets, a very pretty little stairway, just a few minutes walk from the main streets in the centre of Modica Bassa. It's a pretty place with lots of interesting decor and local artwork.

There is the option to have four courses (either a fish menu or a meat menu) for €25, we decided to opt for this option today and had a few fish choices to select from. A lot more food than we would ordinarily order but the price was good, my previous visit had been grand, it was a festival day and, well, why the hell not?

For our antipasto course, we ordered a dish of Polpo é Patate (Octopus and Potato) and Baccalá (Salt Cod) to divide between the two of us.

The Octopus and potato dish was beautifully delicate, used a good olive oil, a little lemon juice and, my favourite ingredient, saffron. While the baccalá provided us with a fuller taste, crispy batter and a wholesome, homely feeling. A lovely start.

We both opted for the same primi, a seafood ravioli with the meat of small crustaceans that have a similar taste to the sweetness of lobster.

Fabulous handmade pasta, stuffed with lovely fishy meat and served in a fragrant broth with the beautiful sweet meat. An absolute delight. And served with a nice little batch of focaccia bread.

Then on to our main courses, Totó opted for Pesce Spada (Swordfish) Palermitana with a tomato and caciocavallo cheese from Ragusa. While

I went for Ricciola (Amberjack) pieces with a typically Sicilian, orange and fennel salad. Totó's dish was well cooked, tasty and the cheese on the salad was amazing but I think i definitely made the right choice. My char-grilled fish was so, so tasty and the salad was a refreshing accompaniment. By this point we were both feeling pretty full, we made good attempts to finish both dishes, tried each other's but neither of us were able to completely empty our plates, so much food!

After a short, much needed break, we ordered dessert. A mixed chocolate plate in honour of Modica's famous chocolate.

We were treated to a gorgeous piece of Modica chocolate, a refreshng jellified chocolate pudding, one of Modica's traditional mpanatigghi - a pastry filled with chocolate and meat, yes actual meat! They are a delicacy around here, however, Totó had to eat both of ours due to my abstinence from meat. And finally, a wonderful, yet potent shot of chocolate liquor. Totó order a second lot of dessert, it really was THAT good!

Slightly unusual for us to opt for the house wine but we did just that this afternoon. And a litre of lovely local insolia left us lavishing in peachy tasting goodness. A great decision.

A fantastic meal, such good value, pleasing atmosphere, jazz playing softly in the background and friendly service with a smile. Just perfect.

L'oste Del Borgo
Scalinate di Pozzo Barone, 30
Modica

Trattoria Basilico - Modica Bassa - Review

Trattoria basilico opened just over a year ago and quickly became a favourite place to eat for my fellow ex-pat friends and I. It's very close to my house so it is our usual place to dine at the times when I don't feel like cooking, in recent times, Totó and I have visited at least once in every fortnight. The restaurant offers a small menu of fresh produce, which changes daily and all dishes are prepared in the open kitchen. the restaurant is owned by simply the loveliest couple and is decorated in a unique, bijoux, mediterranean style... an amalgam of vivid colours, quirky artifacts and, last but definitely not least, a tribute to traditional Sicilian puppet theatre. In addition to this, you are always treated to a wonderful soundtrack of jazz or blues, a perfect accompaniment to a relaxing dining experience.

Today's November Sunday in southern Sicily was not unlike a good spring day in my native UK... temperatures in the low to mid twenties and when the sun was shining, it felt like more, it may be November 20th but it was pleasurable to sit outside in the sunshine, minus jackets, so after a leisurely morning, Totó and I decided to dine al fresco at one of our usual haunts.

Our starter was a shared plate of moscardini, little octopuses in a tomato and garlic sauce. It was the first time that I had tried this dish and I was really thrilled with the acidic sauce and thoroughly enjoyed the tiny whole octopuses.

This was served with warm, fresh bread, some toasted and some served warm from the oven. It was a lovely little opener and one plate was quite satisfactory for the two of us.

For our main courses, we both opted for Tagliolini Bottarga - pasta with tuna roe. I am a big bottarga fan and whenever I see it on a menu, it is usually my favoured choice. Today's bottarga was beautiful and served with a lemon and parsley sauce which tasted so wonderfully refreshing. We both made all the mmmmm-ing and hmmmm-ing noises possible on the first taste.

It was really a delightful dish and one that did not last very long at all!

Today's choice of vino was Hauner - Salina Bianco. This 60% Inzolia and 40% Catarratto mix from vineyards in Salina and Vulcano is a prefect accompaniment to fish dishes. It is crisply acidic with a sharp, tangy citrus aftertaste and hints of juniper and herbs (perhaps sage, I am still training my palate). A really enjoyable drink, which was recommended by our host as a good accompaniment, the gentleman of the casa has always been spot on with his wine suggestions, this guy knows his stuff!

No desserts for either of us today as Totó and his mother have filled my house with sweet treats so none were required... however, previous visits have included delicious rustic chocolate cakes and fantastic pistachio mousse. Always accompany with the Passito di Noto dessert wine!

Another lovely lunch, served by two of the loveliest people in Modica. A favourite place and somewhere you must visit if and when you come to Modica!

Trattoria Basilico
Corso Mazzini, Modica

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