Amici Miei, Modica - Review

Apologies to regular followers that I haven't posted for a little while. Christmas was spent restfully at home with Totó and January was a month filled with hospital visits, ill health and cold weather, we haven't been out much at all and when we have ventured out, it has been to our favourite places which I have already written about. Very much hoping February will bring better fortune and more opportunities to write about the wonderful places to eat and drink in and around Modica.

This weekend has been gloomy and rainy in Modica but yesterday evening we forced ourselves out of the house and decided to head over to Modica Sorda for aperitivo. We were a little early, seemingly too early, for a few places to accommodate us... it was 6pm but we were told in two cafés that we couldn't take aperitivo until 7pm. Eventually, we arrived at Amici Miei and were welcomed warmly by the bar's wonderfully friendly owner, Flavio.

Amici Miei was once a regular hang-out of mine, as I initially lived in Modica Sorda after moving to Sicily. It's a modern bar, elegantly decorated but it's premium asset is Flavio, who is always so accommodating. There is a great drinks selection, including some stunning wines and fabulous cocktails and food is served at lunchtimes, as well as on special dining evenings, as advertised within.

In the street just outside the bar, we bumped into an old colleague of mine so we invited her to join us for a drink. I took a gin and tonic, made with my favourite Tanqueray gin, Totó had an Americano - made exactly as he likes it and my tee-total former colleague had a freshly-made orange juice.

We were each served with a delightful fish appetiser, which included raw shrimp, a mussel and salt cod. Each mouthful was absolutely beautiful.

A lovely revisit and reminder of a great place. We will definitely be heading back soon for a full meal and more lovely drinks with Flavio.

Amici Miei
Via Resistenza Partigiana, Modica Sorda

https://www.facebook.com/amici.miei.7127?fref=ts

Mezzaparola, Donnalucata - Review

On Sunday evening, my lovely boyfriend, a local Modican man, took us out of Modica to Donnalucata for some moonlit seaside strolling and a romantic dinner for two. His location choices have never once left me disappointed.

There are two parts of Mezzaparola, a lovely little cocktail bar and just a few feet away, the restaurant.

Initially, we decided to go to the bar for an aperitivo. The bar is a lovely little spot with a great outside seating area, as well as a modern but comfortable interior bar, it's really pleasing on the eye. We sat outside and the first thing I noticed was the bossa nova jazz playing in the background, it was the perfect soundtrack for a relaxing seaside evening drink, it finished off the perfect ambiance of our gorgeous surroundings.

I moved to Sicily three years ago and since then, I have tried in vain to find a place were I can get a decent version of my favourite cocktail, the mighty Bloody Mary. Most places simply do not serve them, despite our lovely crops of tomatoes here in Sicily, drinking their juices is seemingly something of a taboo. And when I have managed to find somewhere willing to serve one, well, that desired kick is just not as forceful as it ought to be. So, when I saw Bloody Mary on the cocktail menu on Sunday, it was with slight trepidation that I ordered my long-lost favourite tipple (imagine my surprise when my boyfriend ordered one too!). It arrived garnished with cherry tomatoes and basil and the first sip told me all I needed to know, that familiar firey thrill on the tongue. Oh such pleasure! Finally! Finally! A Bloody Mary on the island I now call home. I think we can all sleep a little easier now I know where to go to get my fix.

We ordered some fishy snacks which arrived promptly and were beautifully presented. Being fully satisfied by our experience, we decided we would go for a little stroll by the sea and then hit Mezzaparola Part II - The Restaurant.

The restaurant too has a lovely outside seating space, it was a lovely evening with a warm breeze so we sat in the little garden along with a handful of other diners.

The menu was filled with enticing fish prime (first courses, usually pasta) and seconde (second courses). I was immediately drawn to the Spaghetti alla Bottarga (tuna roe) and after much deliberation, my dining partner went for the same. The dish was stunning, delicate flavours with fantastic fresh pasta. Honestly, one of the best pasta dishes I have eaten and that's a lot of pasta after three years in Sicily. We ordered a second course of tuna with onions and a tomato sauce to share, by this time, I was already feeling quite full but I was so pleased we did order it, the tuna was so tender and the onion and tomato sauce a joy to the palate. If we can describe food as beautiful, this certainly was.

We drank a bottle of Murgo from the Etna region of Sicily which accompanied the meal perfectly. Crisp and with flavours sharp enough to exist next to the lovely fish dishes. A strong choice for anyone looking for a wine to serve with fish.

The service was professional but friendly and I could see our fellow diners enjoying the experience as much as we did. Prices were reasonable given the enormously high standard of everything we tasted.

I can't wait for our next visit. It's an evening to remember for a long time to come, wonderful food, awesome drinks, great music and the company of the man I love... perfect!

Mezzaparola
Via Martiri D'Ungheria 2, 97018 Donnalucata

Caffetteria i Portici Review

I've been visiting Portici on average two or three times a week since I moved to Modica Bassa. It's in a really central location and is the ideal place to meet friends in the afternoon or in the evening before heading off somewhere else. I was first attracted to it because I wanted to sit underneath the stunning Modican arches and watch people passing by. It's become a favourite place, not only because of the arches and central location but because of the quality of produce and because of the friendliness of the family who own and run the business.

During the daytime, I've enjoyed excellent standards of coffee, delicious ice creams, addictive milkshakes (frappe) - seriously, some days I can't stop thinking about how much I crave one, and feasted on wonderful breakfasts of granite - a traditional crushed ice drink with various flavours, my personal favourite being gelsi (mulberry) and brioche. But the best reason to go is for aperitivo, which can be taken at pretty much any time of the day.

One of the best things about Italian life is it's wonderful café culture and with that comes the practice of taking aperitivo. This is usually taken in the early evening before a later dinner (but not exclusively) and consists of taking a glass of wine, a spritz or a cocktail, with which the bar will serve snacks. The quality of snacks produced at aperitivo o'clock varies, in some places, you will just be brought crisps and nuts, maybe a few olives but in other places you can expect a variety of treats. At Portici, you can expect crisps and nuts, along with bruschetta and other little treats to be washed down with your drink of choice. In Modica, Portici is certainly one of the better places to enjoy this joyous Italian tradition.

I usually take a prosecco or one of the local wines, all of the selections I have been served at Portici have been well received. Or if you are visiting, why not try an Aperol Spritz or a Campari and Soda, both very traditional Italian aperitivo choices and still fashionable.

The cafe is run by a couple and their two sons and, while the service can be a little on the slow side (we are still in Sicily, after all!), the family have always been extremely welcoming and friendly. I've been going for a few years and over time have developed a good rapport with them and when I have had family and friends visit from the UK, they have been so welcoming, thoughtful and enthusiastic about meeting my guests - my parents in particular were very taken with the place when they visited for the first time in June. While English is quite obviously difficult for them, they have really made an effort when I have had non-Italian speaking company with me.

The café also serves sandwiches and pasta dishes, I personally have not tried these but from what I have heard from other people, I'd suggest if you want a small snack the place is fine but for something more substantial, there are probably better places to eat.

Prices are very reasonable, for example, a glass of wine complete with the snacks served will cost €3.50 and is €3.50 well spent!

It's a real pleasure to have this place as one of my locals, I'm sure you will enjoy it as much as I (frequently) do.

Caffetteria I Portici
Piazza Principe di Napoli 1, Modica